person measuring with a click rule

Woodworking for the Blind

toy box description

Looking at it from the front and starting at the bottom.
Because of its size I put it on four indoor brass casters. Then it has two drawers with Walnut drawer fronts attached with sliding dove tails.
I should note there is a dado cut in both sides the full height of the box sides, three quarters of an inch back from the front edge.
There is a 1 and 1 half inch board that runs the full width. Then there are 3 1 and 1 half blocks 6 inches tall cut cross grain from the same board. One on each side and one in the middle. These are all connected to the rest of the front panel. This forms the frame for the drawers and this whole piece is glued into the dado described above.
The drawer boxes are made out of half inch Birch plywood. The back of the drawer is attached with a rabbit and groove joint. The drawer fronts are attached to the sides of the drawer with sliding dove tail joints. There is a quarter inch dado in both drawer sides as well as the drawer front. The back of the drawer is cut off at the top of the dado. This allows a piece of quarter inch Birch plywood to slide in from the back and into the dado in the drawer front. This holds the drawer front in place without using glue in the sliding dove tail joints. I did this because I was not sure if my daughter would like the Walnut drawer fronts. If she didn't I could remake them out of Cherry and not destroy the drawer in the process.
I routered partial Ogee profiles a round the edge of both drawer fronts. This profile starts as a round over transitioning to a small cove but does not have the step found with a full ogee profile. I made finger pulls for both drawers by using a 3 quarter inch bull nose router bit. They are 3 inches long and are in the top center of both drawers.
Both edges of the sides of the box have three eighths round-overs so there would not be any sharp corners.
I let the sides run past the front panel for two reasons. One for strength. The front panel is in a dado instead of a rabbit. Second the drawer fronts are flush with the sides again no sharp corners sticking out.
The inside of the box measures aprox 35 inches long by 23 inches wide and 17 inches deep.
The lid is in two parts. The back section is, 38 inches long by 9 inches wide. It has a stop dado set in from each end 1 and 1 half inches and 9 inches long. These are for the shelve sides. This section is held in place by pocket whole screws from underneath.
The lid is aprox 38 inches long and 16 inches wide. It has a piano hinge connected to the back lid. It has a Toybox lid support from Rockler. This holds the lid up and prevents it from slamming shut on small fingers.
The whole lid assembly has a three quarter inch over hang except for the back whitch has a rabbit for the back panel.
The two front corners of the lid are rounded, again no sharp corners.
The whole top has a half round profile cut with a half inch radius round over router bit.

Here comes the hard to describe part.
I cut two shelve sides 9 inches wide and 30 inches tall. 9 inches up from the bottom I cut a stop dado in both sides for a shelf. I made the top twelve inches a cabinet. I wanted about a twelve inch deep cabinet. So the cabinet is 34 inches wide twelve inches tall and twelve inches deep. Because the shelve sides are 9 inches and are part of the side of the cabinet I added a four inch wide board 16 inches tall measuring down from the top to the front of each shelf side. The bottom of each of these boards I cut out a lazy S profile. (Starts as a round over transitions to a cove and ends with another round over. Like the typical wooden shelf bracket you find in stores.)
Then there is a dado cut three quarters of an inch in from the front edge of each of these boards and it is twelve inches tall. This is how the face frame of the door is attached. This matches the front of the toybox its self and the frame for the drawers.
The bottom of the cabinet is also cherry and in dados just like the above mentioned shelf. I made a raised panel door for this. The door frame is made of Cherry and the panel is walnut. The profile a round the out side of the door matches the profile on the drawer fronts and also has the same finger pull in the middle.
The top matches the lid with the same three quarters of an inch over hang on the sides and front, rounded corners and round over profile.
Across the back is a decretive board with the same lazy S profile as the shelf brackets with the same round over profile.
The back of the cabinet and shelf is quarter inch oak plywood stained American Cherry. I could not find Cherry plywood.
I finished it with Minwax high gloss polyurithane. This was the most difficult part to get it right. At first I put it on too heavy and had to sand out the orange peel. I used foam brushes and found if I applyed it with the grain and then with very little left in the brush I went a cross the grain. Then back with the grain, again with very little in the brush I did not miss areas and the coats were more even. I also sanded to 320 before I applyed the finish. After it was dry I polished it with the worn out 320 sanding disk to get rid of the ultra fine dust particles I always seem to have no matter how well I prepare. It took about three coats.

Well I might as well mention a few screw ups I had. A couple are noticeable if you look close. They are both with the stop datos on the cabinet part.
On the top I had to cut the dado going the wrong way on the router table. It must have hit a hard or soft place and pulled away from the fence a little. The top was 34 inches wide and I could still not hold it against the fence when it jumped forward. The other is the cross stop dado for the bottom of the cabinet. My router table was not wide enough so I used the table saw and went just a fraction too far across the intersecting verticle dado.
So there you have it.